Great Lakes


Great Lakes

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Rating Scale:
Stunning
Excellent
Enjoyable
So-so
Not worth it

Drummond Island

Drummond
Islands off the north shore of Drummond Island

Actually a collection of 56 islands just off the eastern edge of the U.P. A quick ferry ride  (~$10 round trip) takes you to Drummond Island itself, most of the smaller islands are north east of the island. You can paddle extensively around the islands without being more than about 1/2 mile from land. The beach near Seastone Point provides a convenient launching point from the north shore of Drummond. The largest of the surrounding islands, Harbor Island, is a horseshoe shape, with a large protected bay in the middle. Most of the islands are private, but I have been told that there is at least one that is state owned which you can apparently camp on. Camping is not allowed on Harbor Island, it is for day-use only. Inland, there are a series of four connected lakes that comprise a 5-mile water trail. Kayak rentals are available from the Woodmoor hotel (see Kayak Rentals). Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Negwegon State Park

Negwegon
Overlooking Bird Island
(N 44°51.335' , W 083°19.447') - Undoubtedly one of the best hiking and paddling sites in the Lower Peninsula, secluded Negwegon State Park sits on the shore of Lake Huron between Alpena and Harrisville, at the south end of Thunder Bay. From there, we carried our boats a couple hundred feet down the trail to the crystal clear blue water. The water depth varied constantly as we paddled north, several stretches required us to dodge exposed rocks and glide carefully over others inches below the surface. Passing around South Point we circled Bird Island - a collection of three small islands packed with so many birds you can barely see the ground. Continuing north, we approached Scarecrow Island, part of the Michigan Island National Wildlife Refuge. This island, too, was crammed full of birds - an amazing sight. We had our choice of isolated beaches to land on for lunch as we paddled the four miles back south to our put-in point.
Either this park is remarkably unknown, or the tricky access deters more visitors. Despite arriving on a perfectly sunny Saturday in July, there was only a single car in the parking area upon our arrival, and maybe a dozen when we left. In four hours on or near the water, we saw a handful of hikers but not a single other boat of any kind. To get there take Black River Road east off of U.S. 23 about a mile and a half, turn north past an old cemetery onto Sand Hill Road. About three miles in, turn east on the gravel entrance to the park. Supposedly the park system warns that two-wheel drive vehicles can often become stuck on Sand Hill Road. However, while sandy, most of it is shallow - the only time we really needed the 4WD on our Explorer was when we had to pull into some deep stuff off the side of the narrow road to allow an oncoming vehicle to pass.
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Lion's Head, Bruce Peninsula (Ontario)

Bruce Peninsula
Paddling out from Lion's Head, Bruce Peninsula.

About five hours drive from Metro Detroit, the Bruce Peninsula separates Georgian Bay from the rest of Lake Huron. The western (Georgian Bay) side of the peninsula consists of striking limestone cliffs, with warmer waters and numerous small islands on the eastern (Lake Huron) side. Launching from the beach in the village of Lion's Head (N 44°59.311' , W 081°15.110') and following the cliffs a couple miles around the peninsula to the east, we found a couple beautiful, thoroughly secluded (though possibly unofficial) campsites. The only other people we saw while camped there were a few hikers off in the distance on the Bruce Trail. Also of interest were the remains of a couple shipwrecks, several hundred feet off the beach in Lion's Head. The Georgian Bay water is remarkably clear, yielding some gorgeous shades of blue in the more shallow regions. Kayak rentals are available nearby in the town of Hepworth(see Kayak Rentals). Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Flowerpot Island/Tobermory, Bruce Peninsula (Ontario)

Flowerpot
Flowerpot Island, off Bruce Peninsula.

Perhaps the finest scenery on the Bruce Peninsula lies at its tip, in Bruce Peninsula National Park and Fathom Five National Marine Park. Launching from the public dock in the town of Tobermory (N 45°15.300' , W 081°39.874'), it's an approximately four mile paddle north to Flowerpot Island. The island features two towering "flowerpot" rock formations, cliffs, several miles of hiking trails, and six campsites for overnight visitors. Unfortunately, the sites are available on a first come-first serve basis only, though this may change after 1998. Several ferries shuttle tourists to the island, so it can get a little crowded during the day, but it is still well worth the trip. The Bruce Peninsula National Park also has a couple overnight campsites along the Bruce Trail which are apparently accessible by kayak. Kayak rentals are available in the town of Hepworth at the base of the Bruce Peninsula (see Kayak Rentals). Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Pointe aux Barques

Pointe aux Barques
Exploring Pointe aux Barques

Occupying the very tip of Michigan's thumb, Pointe aux Barques looks like a dislocated chunk of Lake Superior shoreline. In contrast to the sandy, flat beaches around the western shore of the thumb, the Pointe features rocky cliffs, flowerpot rock formations, and shallow sea caves. The site is slightly marred by several cottages perched on top of the cliffs, but not too cluttered.
We started our paddle at the hand-carry boat launch at Eagle Bay (N 44°03.933', W 082°55.198') , about two miles east. After spending an hour on the beach, waiting out an eerie morning offshore storm (complete with funnel clouds and waterspouts!), we launched into the rocky bay. Paddling to the Pointe, we threaded our way through several extended "fingers" of broken rocks, watching vultures soaring over the nearby treetops. Paddling further west from the Pointe past Port Austin, the scattered underwater rocks remain, but sandy beaches soon replace the rocky cliffs. Several shipwrecks apparently lie offshore in this area, though the water was pretty clear, it was too choppy during our paddle for us to find anything. Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Pictured Rocks

Pictured Rocks Cliff         Pictured Rocks Cliff
Cliff and arch near Mosquito Beach.

One of my biggest aggravations is people who think Michigan lacks truly exceptional paddling locations. There's more to the state than southeastern lower Michigan, folks! Lake Superior especially is full of world-class paddling opportunities, with Pictured Rocks perhaps the most well-known. Stunning multicolored 200 foot high cliffs, towers, arches, and caves. There are several places to launch at this National Lakeshore. Miner's Beach requires a carry of about 100 yards but sets up a great day trip - west to Miner's Castle, then east for about three or four miles of some of the finest cliffs and rock formations. Check with the National Park Service for more information, including reservations for backcountry sites for yakpacking or backpacking such as Mosquito Beach and Chapel Beach. Nearby Grand Island also offers paddling opportunities and may be more accessible in some weather conditions. Remember, Superior can be mean when it wants to be. Storms can blow up quickly, the cliffs often prevent you from landing for miles in either direction, and the water can be icy cold, even in summer. Finally, don't forget the black flies, late summer is fairly comfortable, but early summer can be unbearable. Kayak rentals are available in Munising (see Kayak Rentals). Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Tawas Bay

Tawas Beach
The beach on the eastern side of Tawas Point.

A shallow sheltered bay on the western shore of Saginaw Bay, Lake Huron. Launch into the bay from the town of Tawas, or outside the bay from Tawas Point State Park. From the park, you can paddle around the point into the calm waters of the bay, just under a mile from the beach. A great place to practice due to the clear, protected, shallow water. Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Pinery Provincial Park (Ontario)

Pinery
Late summer at the Pinery.
A popular and often crowded park about an hour northwest of Port Huron, the Pinery can still be enjoyed if you visit off-season. The water near the beach is closed to motorized craft, drive up to the picnic area above the beach for a convenient launch site. Paddle west for the larger dunes, too far to the east and you encounter boat traffic and the ever expanding tourist mecca of Grand Bend. There's so much beach here you could probably always find an empty spot to practice rolls and paddling strokes. If the waves are too big, you can always paddle the Old Ausable Channel, a wide, slow-moving river in the park. To see this park at its best, come back in the winter with a pair of snowshoes and enjoy total solitude on the beaches and dunes that were packed six months before. Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore

SleepingBear
Sleeping Bear Dune.
With probably the most impressive dunes on the Lake Michigan shoreline, this National Lakeshore provides a little more quiet than you may get in some of the state-run areas. If you don't mind carrying your boat a couple hundred yards, try launching from North Bar Lake (N44°50.627', W 086°03.710'). Paddle across the lake, float your boat through the channel and out into Lake Michigan. Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Fisherman's Island State Park
Immediately south of Charlevoix, Fisherman's Island State Park conveniently contains both scenic paddling and one of the better Lower Peninsula campgrounds. The Island itself was a peninsula during our 2001 summer paddle - a thin strip of sand connected it to the coast due to the low water levels. Launching from the beach (N45°17.171', W 085°20.640'), around the "island", then back along the coast towards the park entrance provides a pleasant three hour paddle. Short dunes and forests line the shore, and the clear, shallow water covers intricate rock patterns. The only interruptions are a handful of campsites at the north side of the park, the occasional vehicle driving down the short visible sections of the park road, and a moderately small collection of boats that anchor near the beach by the island. And a less than scenic cement plant to the north - but don't worry, you can't see it from most of the park anyway.
The park also has a picturesque three mile hiking trail that winds along the crest of one of the inland, forested dune ridges.
If you have the foresight to reserve a campsite well in advance, grab one of the dozen or so along Lake Michigan.
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Les Cheneaux Islands
Most islands are lined with cottages, but Government Island is all public land, with overnight camping permitted. The Cedarville public ramp is not the best for launching, instead try the end of the Peninsula between Moscoe Channel and McKay Bay (N45°58.494', W 084°17.513')
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Wilderness State Park

Wilderness SP Kayaks on Rocks
Big Cut, Wilderness State Park.
Rocky, scenic shorelines, with fairly low noise and crowds. Watch for low water levels. For a good launch site, take the dirt road west through the park and turn south toward the cabin on Sturgeon Bay. (N45°44.570', W 084°57.421') Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Nayanquing Point State Wildlife Area
About 20 miles north of Bay City, Nayanquing Point could be considered Saginaw Bay's version of Point Pelee. A southward stretching arm of land protects a marshy inland lake. Paddling both in the sheltered lake and around the point to the open water, we saw an incredible diversity of birds - ducks, geese, gulls, herons, and many others I don't have the skill to identify. Despite choosing a cloudless Saturday in July for our visit, the site was practically deserted - maybe five cars in the parking area and our choice of deserted beaches on the shore of Lake Huron to land on. The water on both sides of the point was rather murky, but this relaxing paddle is still recommended, especially for birdwatchers. To access this site from I-75, take exit 173 to Linwood Rd., head east a couple miles to M-13, north about three miles to Kitchen Rd., then east again for a mile or so until the road turns to dirt and curves south. The three-story viewing structure at the parking area (N 43°46.490', W083°56.286') lets you scope out your route before you put in at the adjacent ramp.
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Wildfowl Bay State Wildlife Area
In eastern Saginaw Bay there are several islands just a couple miles from shore, about two and a half hours from metro Detroit. The water out to the more southern islands is mostly quite shallow, with patches of reeds everywhere. The water is rather murky to the South of the town of Bay Port, but clears up as you approach Wild Fowl Bay to the north. Suggested launch sites include the DNR boat ramp in the town of Bay Port, and the dirt ramp about a mile and half south of town on M-25.
North Island, about three miles from Bay Port, is an excellent destination. There are a few cabins on the island, but these are unobtrusive and only on the side facing Wild Fowl Bay. Visiting boats and fishermen seem to stay on this side, too, leaving the shallow, clear waters of the southwest side quiet and secluded. Perhaps the strangest thing we saw was a number of carp on all sides of the island, thrashing about on the surface in the shallow waters. Apparently some sort of spawning behavior - bizarre! A group of three even ran into my boat. Note that those with fiberglass boats definitely want to be careful, there are a lot of shallow, rocky areas when the water level is low.
The western side Heisterman Island, about a mile south of North Island, is even better. Part of the State Wildlife Area, there are no buildings, and the fishing boats are uncommon. As to the north, there are many rocky, shallow spots. Our attempt to circumnavigate the island was foiled by low water levels - beware of maps showing a passage between Heisterman and Maisou to the south! We paddled all the way down past and around Maisou, but still not confident we could work our way back to Bay Port through the low water, we retraced our path back along the western side of the islands.
The paddle out to North and Heisterman Islands may be good for the less experienced in that the water is mostly shallow and warms up early in the year.
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Silver Lake State Park
On the shores of Lake Michigan near the towns of Hart and Shelby, the sand dunes at Silver Lake State Park are used by beachgoers, hikers, and off-roaders, each divided into their own section. The best launch site we could find was the public beach at the south end of the park in the shadow the lighthouse, though the carry from the parking lot is about 200 feet and requires climbing a small dune. Paddling north, the crowds on the beach and the couple neighboring cottages quickly disappeared. Except for a small stretch where the dune ride concessionaire's trucks occasional pop up, the shoreline was practically empty, even on a Labor Day weekend. This continued for a couple miles, until we reached the boundary of the ORV area. While sparsely populated during the week, on this holiday weekend the site was packed - hundreds of 4x4's, ATV, and bikes, many just lined up by the water. An interesting spectacle, worth watching for a few minutes. Turning back south, we found ourselves facing into a stiff wind that picked up as we fought our way back to the launch site. We played in the surf, with beautiful sets of breaking waves tossing our boats about. As we neared the lighthouse, the wind and waves were intense enough that it seemed we were barely making headway. We had to land a fair walk away from lighthouse in order to avoid swimmers, as we correctly judged it would be virtually impossible to control our speed and precise direction in the surf zone. An exhausting paddle given the wind, but the accompanying waves made it well worth it. The "3 paddle" rating assumes a fairly calm day, but the wide open beaches, sandy lake bottom, and warm late summer waters make this a "5" on a windy day if you're looking for a place to play in the waves.
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Duck Lake State Park
A little north of Muskegon, Duck Lake provides a convenient place to launch into Lake Michigan. Work your way from US-31 out to Scenic Drive. Just south of Wabaningo Rd, a small stream runs from Duck Lake through the beach to Lake Michigan. If you arrive early enough to beat the crowds of bathers, you should be able to park off the side of the road, providing just a short carry to the stream, then a short paddle out to the big water. Paddling north in Lake Michigan, you'll find a few cottages, but mostly trees, sandy cliffs, and beaches. Power boat traffic was moderate once we reached the point where White Lake empties into Lake Michigan, but otherwise was not too obtrusive.
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Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area
Just north of Ludington and Lake Hamlin, Nordhouse Dunes is the only designated wilderness area in the entire lower peninsula. Though rather small, it offers one of the best chances for a backcountry experience outside the UP. Access to Lake Michigan is through the Lake Michigan Recreation Area in the Manistee National Forest - take Lake Michigan Recreation Area Road off of US-31. There's a parking lot at the end of the road, but you're supposed to purchase a $3/day pass beforehand. The passes are supposed to be available at the BP gas station on US-31, and you can rest assured that your money will help make sure that the Forest Service can still afford to spend a quarter billion dollars a year subsidizing logging... Anyway, you'll have to carry your boats a couple hundred feet down a short road to the beach, but the dunes are worth it. Paddle south, and the you'll enjoy empty forest-lined beaches and wind-carved sand. We know a couple paddlers who recommend packing your camping gear and hiking boots into your boat and enjoying a night or two in the wilderness backcountry.
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Point Pelee (Ontario)
Just one hour from the Ambassador Bridge (Detroit/Windsor), this Canadian National Park projects about six miles south into Lake Erie. The western edge of this peninsula looks like a great paddle, with several beaches available to launch from, though 25 knot winds were producing waves a little beyond our experience level on our trip there. Inside the Point is a large marsh, with cattails lining a series of canals and ponds. Launching from the Marsh Boardwalk area (N 41°58.076' W 082°31.887') a mile and a half from the park entrance, we paddled westward a little over half a mile to Lake Pond. On the way, we caught a glimpse of several Blue Herons, just a taste of the birdlife the park is famous for during the Spring (3rd week of May) and Fall (September and October) migrations. We had hoped to travel another mile east to the edge of Lake Pond, where a short portage would have let us try the waters of Lake Erie on the leeward side of the Point, but were forced to turn back by approaching lightning. Boats can be rented a couple miles outside of the park from Pelee Wings (see
Kayak Rentals.) There is no camping inside the park, though Wheatley Provincial Park, 15 minutes West, provides many excellent sites typical of Provincial Parks. Wheatley is composed of several fingers of land jutting southward, protected by a perpendicular peninsula. This creates opportunities for paddling both calm water and the open water of Lake Erie at one site. Return to Great Lakes MapArrow

Rondeau Provincial Park
If you've already seen Pelee, want a place with camp sites, or want smaller crowds, try Rondeau Provincial Park. Rondeau, about 40 miles northwest of the Pelee peninsula, is similar in many ways. While forming less of a point, it contains both marshy areas and sandy beaches. To paddle into the marsh, with its abundant birdlife, launch into the protected bay from the site right at the park entrance or just up the road at the park store. A better option is to drive past the Visitor Center and launch from the southern most beach access on Lake Erie (N42°16.016', W081°50.635'). From there you should be able to paddle around the curving shoreline to the south and then to the east, and turn into the bay to tour the marsh, though our attempt to do so was cut short by approaching weather. Launching from this point also gets you past the cottages that line the Erie beach.
The park also contains several scenic, if flat, hiking trails. A campground is located right after the entrance, though it has a crowded feel due to a relative lack of trees. Perhaps it's different when the birds are migrating, but during our visit on a July weekend the trails were practically empty, the beach had maybe 20 people on it, and we saw only a couple boats while out on the water.
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St. Clair Flats Wildlife Area
Braving our fears of Lake St. Clair water quality, we decided to explore this marshy area where the St. Clair river outlets into the Lake east of Anchor Bay. Launching from the gravel ramps at the DNR at the point at the end of Anchor Bay Drive (N 42°37.879', W082°39.013'), we slipped out into a maze of reed clusters. Exploring the channels created by these reeds looked promising, but the incessant drone of Jet Skis destroyed any illusion that we had left civilization behind. We paddled around several small islands, gliding through the less dense clusters of reeds to escape the gas-spewing gnats that kept racing across our path, eventually circling back to our put-in point. Unfortunately, the murky water, somewhat monotonous scenery, and constant interference of Jet Skis prevent us from recommending this paddle. Note that we were at the Flats on Labor Day, maybe this could be enjoyable when less crowded - let me know if anyone finds a better way to enjoy this spot. Also, there are inland marshes on either side of M-29 -  this seems a little limited, but maybe presents a better opportunity for a relaxing paddle when the crowds are out, or if the weather is too windy for the more open water.
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Maumee Bay (Ohio)
Located just east of the mouth of the Maumee River and Toledo, the Maumee Bay State Park seems strangely unnatural - concrete, mowed lawns, and buildings. We paddled it late in the year, it was largely uncrowded, though still had a few pesky JetSkis. Traveling to the east around Cedar Point (no, not that Cedar Point) and what is supposed to be a wildlife refuge, we saw an unfortunate amount of garbage strewn along the coast. Rounding the point, we had only a view of another power plant to the east, to join Fermi II to the north. On the plus side, this end of Lake Erie is one of the first places to warm up in the spring, and if you like watching windsurfers, this is a good spot.
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Other Recommended Places We Have Yet To Go
If you've paddled any of these places or have any others to suggest, please post your comments in our Michigan "Places to Paddle" Catalog:

Note: Provided GPS coordinates are subject to error, please do not use as sole means of navigation.


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